You started using retinol, and after a few days your skin is flaking around the nose and mouth. It feels rough, perhaps a little red. The obvious reaction – stopping – is usually the wrong one. This article explains what is happening, what is normal and where the line is.
What is retinisation?
Retinisation is the adjustment phase in which your skin gets used to vitamin A. Retinol accelerates cell renewal: old skin cells shed faster than your skin is used to. The result is exactly what you are seeing – flaking, a rough feel, sometimes tightness.
The phase usually lasts two to three weeks. After that the cell cycle has adapted and the skin settles, while the active carries on working.
What is normal – and what is not
| Normal | Reason to pause |
|---|---|
| Light flaking, especially around nose and mouth | Stinging that does not subside within a few minutes of applying |
| A tight feeling after cleansing | Weeping or broken skin |
| Slightly more redness than usual | Swelling |
| Make-up sits less evenly in the first weeks | Itching that does not stop |
The left column passes. The right column means: skip a few days, then restart at a lower frequency.
The most common mistake
Usually the problem is not the strength but the frequency. Starting every evening straight away asks too much of the skin, no matter how low the dose.
| Period | Frequency |
|---|---|
| Weeks 1–2 | Twice a week |
| Weeks 3–4 | Every other evening |
| From week 5 | Daily, if your skin tolerates it well |
When you restart after a pause, step back in frequency – not in strength. A weaker product every evening often irritates more than a stronger one twice a week.
What makes the adjustment easier
- The buffer method. Apply your Night Cream first and the retinol after it. That slows absorption and noticeably reduces irritation without undoing the effect.
- No acids the same night. Exfoliants from Exfoliation & Toner belong to a different evening.
- Cleanse more gently. No extra scrub in the first weeks. A mild Cleansing step is enough.
- Add hydration. A product from Hydration under or over the retinol absorbs a lot of the reaction.
- Do not skip sun protection. Your skin is more sensitive right now: Sun Protection matters more during the adjustment than at any other time.
If it still does not work
Some skin tolerates a pure retinal serum poorly even at the lowest dose. A cream base is then the better route – for example the Intelligent Retinol Smoothing Night Cream, in which the retinol is embedded and therefore buffered.
If you do not tolerate vitamin A at all, or have to avoid it during pregnancy, Bakuchiol Peptides is a plant-based alternative without vitamin A.
Which strength suits your skin? Six short questions and you will know →
Frequently asked questions about the adjustment phase
How long does retinisation last?
Usually two to three weeks. With sensitive skin or a higher dose it can take a little longer.
Should I stop when I see flaking?
No. Light flaking is part of the adjustment. Lower the frequency rather than stopping altogether, and buffer with a night cream.
May I scrub the flakes away?
Better not. A mechanical exfoliant on irritated skin usually prolongs the adjustment. Gentle cleansing and good moisturising works faster.
Does retinisation return when I increase the strength?
Usually in a milder form, because your skin is already used to vitamin A. Even when stepping up it is worth briefly reducing the frequency.
When should I seek medical advice?
With persistent stinging, weeping areas or swelling. That is not part of a normal adjustment.
